Видео

That's not easy to answer. When the small parts is part of a bigger structure, for example, a turntable with markers, then a 4x4x4 cm object can be scanned, but this is not a scanner for small objects. The Scan Otter might be a better choice for you if that's what you want to scan.

Dit is een heel algemene vraag, en daarom niet echt te beantwoorden. Wat bedoel je met afstellen? Er zijn van Algolaser materiaal tabellen waarin je globaal kunt zien welke instellingen je moet gebruiken voor bepaalde materialen. Ook hebben ze een fantastische Facebook community waarin ook vertegenwoordigers van Algolaser zelf zitten. Die kunnen je absoluut helpen als je andere vragen hebt.

1600 SEK would be about 140 Euro. For that price you would get a very good printer that would be a great starting point to start your experience with 3D printing. Now, you have to know I love 3D printing with Artillery printers, and I for sure think these printers are much better than the Creality alternatives, but there is one good thing about the Ender series of printers and that is that you will find much more videos on RUclips about them. So, for a starter, a Creality printer might be a better introduction to 3D printing, although the machine is for sure less good than the Artillery machines. Now, if you are really willing to learn about 3D printing, then go for it. The Artillery machines are that good that I still (after 4 years) use them daily. The only things i have repaired on them are new nozzles and a new screen on my sidewinder X1, because I touched it just a little too hard and broke it.

Your Welcome. Thans for the nice reply.

I understand what you are saying, but as you can see, it's not only one direction. Also, as I stated in the video, the issue is solved and it had nothing to do with the stepper motors. It were the cheap stepperdriver clones the used on the 4.2.2 motherboeard that were to blame. after replacing the motherboard for a 4.2.7 version (with the good stepper trinamic stepperdrivers) the issue was gone.

@@3dPrintCreator sorry meant to say stepper driver. For others, that have had a machine for a while and then it skips. Start with the belt then check the a4988 chips. I think sometimes they can get too hot. The cheap Chinese knock offs are not good (red ones). Either get new ones or call the company.

As I understand the only difference is in the module, so the rest is exactly the same.

Thanks for your reply, I love to hear things like this.

On the display it goes allt he way to 120 degrees Celcius, but that's B.S. However, for an enclosed FDM printer it's possible to get it up to 55 degrees. I have reached that in about 22 minutes.

Dat is moeilijk te zeggen. Het is in elk geval niet zo dat je 2x zo diep kunt snijden, denk eerder aan een millimeter extra diep, o.i.d. Hoe meer vermogen een diode laser heeft, hoe groter de projectie wordt qua oppervlak, en hoe groter de projectie, hoe minder geconcentreerd het licht word omgezet in warmte, en dus snijkracht. Ik weet echter van deze fabrikant niet hoe goed (effectief) hun 10 Watt lasers zijn, dus een heel specifieke uitspraak durf ik hierover niet te doen.

That's a fact. :-)

You are welcome.

Das ist schön zu hören, danke für Ihre Antwort.

That's unfortunate, but something that is not in my control. You can however, use the original board on your original extruder.

Hi, thanks for your reply. I am sorry. It's been a long time ago since I had that printer. In my memory it was a 12 volt cartridge, but I am not sure about the wattage (However I can remember it was not that high, as it took a long time to heat up).

Thank you.

Good to hear that. Enjoy your lasermachine.

Same issue here...

To answer this, I must see the whole picture. What machine do you have? Which type of GRBL is used? What is the mainboard and it's firmware (and have you updated to the latest available firmware yet?) Is this is al very specific, I (as a user, just like you) can't help you, unless you happen to have the exact same machine with the same settings as I have. I advice to contact the vendor and ask them.

Most probably in the laser settings in Lightburn or other software you are using, you have the X and/or Y offset for homing set to 0 instead of a value like 1 to 5mm. This is found under the machine settings.

I am glad this worked out for you. Enjoy printing on your machine.

Actually, not true. I have both and they are the same. This is also confirmed by Creality on their official Facebook group. They only difference is the included wifi box. Also, the firmware on the pro is different, but only because of the wifi capabilities. You can flash a normal version to a pro if you want and vice versa.

I went to crealitys website. And it says the pro only has anti shake? Go have a look

@3dPrintCreator Creality website says only the pro has anti shake.

​@@jusihya2004This might be a regional website mistake. The US site for the scanners states this feature for the non-pro versions

@@jusihya2004 I know, and I have talked to them about that. Their own technical staff then acknowledged that this is WRONG and all the models have anti shake. The conversation can be found on their OWN facebook group. I have listed it somewhere here in another comment. I get it that this is confusing, that's why I made this video in the first place.

After I made this video, I moved to a new website provider and in that proces, some of my files got lost unfortunately. I am sorry, but I don't have that profile anymore (just like the printer).

It can be used with a pc if it supports wifi 6

Hi, thanks for your reply and sorry for my late answer to this. I hope you have been playing with your settings and found some interesting results.

The only thing I can say to this is, please scroll down and take a look for yourself. I don't feel like I am disrespectful to anybody. In the few cases where someone asked a question about the brand and type of laser I use and how to use it, I asked whether the person had already watched the title of the video and the video itself? For the rest I have given everyone a normal answer, just like I answer you.

That's a pitty. I don't have that machine so I can't test it for you.; Sorry 😞

Hi, thanks for your reply. The answer to your reply is Yes..... And No. The risk of having Chlorine gas in your machine (and in your makerspace if that's not well ventilated), is a very big one, but it's not the only risk there is. There are so many other chemicals that can form a risk in your shop, like for example Styrene, found in ABS, ASA and many other plastics (and even some wood glue). This is less of a problem in the machine as it doesn't kill your harrdware, but you don't want the Styrene in the air you are breathing. Good air filtration and circulation is therefore very important. In my shop, the use of own materials in my machines is prohibited unless it's absolutely sure (and checked by myself) that the used materials are not a risk.

@@3dPrintCreator Thanks for those further tips! In a mixed blessing, a massive flood (broken pipe) provided the impetus and some of the funding to completely remodel our main workspace. Part of the redesign is what we’re calling the “fume room”, which has no HVAC return to the rest of the system and an exhaust fan to the outside that we can run to individual machines. (This is also the room where we’ll be running the smelly resin printers and wash/cure stations.) So we should be well set up to keep noxious fumes out of the air and away from people’s lungs 😁 Good to know about the risks of styrene as well, besides just PVC. Thanks again for the great tips!

Hi, thank for your reply. As you can see in the video, I made a bed for the laser with a grid. With this bed and grid it's very easy to position any engraving to any object.

I wouldn't do it as Polyester fabric gives a nasty, unhealty fume when burned with a laser. There fumes are very toxic and also very corosive to the laser.

Maybe, you should check the video, watch it and take a look at the name of the video.

Yes you can, but I wouldn't do it, at least not inside your house. Engraving plastics is extremely toxic and can really harm you.

That will reduce the print quality a (and maybe even a lot).

There is no answer to this question. Yes, there are white synthetic fabrics that can be cut. Does this mean avery white sysnthetic fabric can be cut? No. How thick is the fabric? How reflective is it? What is the melting temperature? Etc. Etc. You wioll have to test this for every specific fabric.

@@3dPrintCreator my synthetic fabric is up to 1mm and it is white but slightly shiny side and generally we cut it through 10 wat soldering iron or hot knife so plz let me know

too

What machine do you have?? Mine is the s30 sculpfun​@@generalmeks

@@IVONNE1997ful neje 3 plus

It seems there are more reasons for Alarm 8 to activate. I am diving in to it to see if I can create tham.

@@3dPrintCreator hello how can i be in contact with you, my machine since i have it i am not able to make otros work properly...

IT was not the issue on my Ender 3 V2, but itś good to mention this nevertheless. Thanks for your comment.

I have no experience with VAT heaters at all, so a comparison is not something I can make. Yet I do know that I never had a failed print anymore after using this heater.

@@3dPrintCreator I'll let you know. I decided to give this product a try. I currently use a thermal vat band on a large format machine. I'm going to try this heater on an Anycubic Photon D2. I print with high wax content resin and vat temp of 80F is very important.

Yes and no. Yes, the machine can do it. But I don't think the lightburn software is able to do this, so you would have to generate your own personal g-Code.

There is no difference in the operating distance among the models. In fact, there is no difference at all, except for the accessories you receive in the box you bought.

@@3dPrintCreator Are you 100% sure about this? Its specified multiple times that apparently the min scan area is 150x..mm for the SE and 50x..mm for the other 2. Would this only be the assumed added mobility it gives? I ordered a SE but am somewhat second guessing myself now

@@LAKXx If you have Facebook, search for: Creality 3D Scanner Official Group There you will find some Creality Officials that can confirm you there is NO hardware difference between the scanners, except for the accessories you get. In there you can look for the post about the Ferret SE made on the 6th of December, and in that post there is a debate about differences and Creality confirms that there is no hardware difference at all. However, there is a FIRMWARE difference between the Ferret Pro and the other two models, because only the Pro has the WiFi capability added to the firmware. I have both the Pro and the normal Ferret, and you can swap firmware if you like without a problem.

@@3dPrintCreator Thanks man, my scanner will be arriving this week and was honestly ready to send it back since i found the normal ferret at the same price, like at 3 euro more which all in all is a nice deal for an extra 4500mha powerbank alone but i think imma just keep the SE now if we really sure its the same machine across the serieas. Still that minimum scan area is honestly confusing

He Nick. Ja leuk, moet je doen. Het is hier nog lang niet af, maar er word al wel productie gedraaid. Trouwens, vergeet niet je uitlaat mee te nemen :-)

Yes and No, this is totally true for some types of printbed. However the Glass with dots beds I have on most my old printers, don't release the print even when cooled down. I have to use a scraper to get the print of the bed, and then the power fail function could be helpfull. These glass beds on old printers are in fact very good, as you can stop heating your bed after the 3rd layer, saving on energy costs. This also makes it possible to tun more printers on only 1 breaker. Here in the Netherlands, where I live, a power outage almost never happens. Therefore, I am not doing any counter measures to prevent a failed print. I have the power failure function on almost all my printers turned off.